The Bibbulmun: day fourty seven – Denmark -> West Cape Howe

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Today was the conundrum day – to skip a part or to not skip a part? The track crosses over the Denmark inlet, so you either have to catch a ferry across (which is super expensive…I can’t remember exactly how much but like $80? $100?) or else get a lift around the inlet to the other side and meet the track there. If you catch a lift around, you can either get dropped off at the point where the ferry docks (thus doing the ‘whole’ track) or else skip a few km (6km maybe?) and start where the track hits the road and turns inland.

Lynne and I did the full today, but dropped our packs at the road junction, so had the first little part with no pack on. Was a dream walking without carrying anything. It’s so heavy with food and mouthwash (from dentist for my gum) and big gas (no little gas cans available to buy in town!) etc. Feet v sore (what else is new). Glad I did the full thing, was quite chill for 27km. 2 small snakes, 1 x bobby. Other Lyn also hutting with us now. Was a nice night last night – Helle and I went to pub for dinner, then came back and the March girls were drinking wine at the YHA. Had a cider @ pub then a glass of wine at YHA! MG’s were laughing – joking about going in the float tank at Mt Romance and them not letting us in as our feet would contaminate the tank haha. Googled it, tribal dreaming centre is closed 🙁 so no float tank for me! Gong still going though! Only 16.5km tomorrow – hope I sleep in. (unlikely). Had a good talk during the walk today with Lynne about relationships and career and stuff. She met her current husband (of 30+years) when she was married to someone else. Who knows what life will bring. Not much to report on really; track unremarkable except easy climbing – they mapped it along the contours well! And nice views over lowlands. Especially recognizing lowlands, really have a sense I’m in my homeland. Have done 5km of tomorrow’s section too, in the past – to Torbay! My local! Crazy times. Who knew I could last this long with feet this sore. Awoke before 4am again today – ready for bed now (it’s 5pm).

The Bibbulmun: day fourty three – Rame Head -> Peaceful Bay

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Bit of a restless night with achy bits and sharp pain in right toe/foot. Mozzie in the morning around my head. Slow start to morning, which was nice – was a beautiful cost/ridge walk into PB. Talked with mum about many things, some of which prompted tears. How can I think about making these life decisions if I don’t know who/where I am? Of course not happy in work/life/relationship if don’t know where sit in the world….anyway. Dunno. Tapped into some grief about some of that.

Got into town, we had a coffee and went back down to the beach, and I went for a swim (!) it was cold! Dad arrived, fish and chips, bought food for dinner. All good. You get fuck all for $60 a night, what a rip. What are ya gonna do though. Feel like a bitch. Why am I like this? So grumpy and hating on so many things? The story in my head is ‘there’s something wrong with me that I’m thinking/acting like this’.

Saw a family of seals near some rocks, beautiful. Weren’t doing much but were cute all the same. The March Girls are planning a short cut along the beach tomorrow morning, do I do it? My legit-meter is like, ‘ding ding ding’, but I’ve already done a surplus of km…would prob only be a diff of one or two. What if I missed something good though! But beach might be really nice…oh well. Not too much in terms of a dilemma. Two nights through to Denmark…meant to be three hard days, but kind of looking forward to it after these cruisy few days! Going to be finished so soon.

The Bibbulmun: day fourty two – Giants -> Rame Head

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Yesterday was so cruisy I was thinking I’d be bummed about not doubling today, BUT. Wildish night, woke to rain and ?hail many times. Some rain during the walk but not too bad, just squalls passing though as per usual. In last couple of km to conspicuous beach though, up on the ridge of the dunes, really windy! Blowing me sideways off the track kind of windy. Had to take the cockblocker off or it would be lost (come at me boys). Saw Mum and Dad pulling in as I walked the final ridge, good timing. Also, randomly, Ben Carter with his girlfriend (small world). Had chicken sangas and raw cheesecake and rooibos tea that Mum and Dad brought. Went up to the lookout, then the viewing platform. One of the windiest land experiences I can remember. SO WINDY. Somehow beach and cliff turned into wind tunnel and it was so strong on the platform you could literally lean into it. Was like being on a show ride, was hilarious and fun. Just so love mother nature! So much wild!

Mum joined me from there, just 3km to hut but was rain (sideways) and strong wind and sand dunes. Made for v tough walking and on arriving here was glad to be single hutting! Peaceful Bay tomorrow with the much lauded fish and chips – don’t want to get hopes too high as got excited about hot choc/coffee at the Tree Top Walk and that turned out shite. Told Mum of some of my existential crisis-ness and she said I sound like a product of my generation. Chopping/changing, I think she is referring to. Maybe. But how does that help me? It doesn’t.

Hungry hungry hippo again this arv. Probs coz I’m sitting here doing sweet FA. Lying in baggie as too cold in wind not to. Shelter is fairly sheltered but even so. Nice hut here, love the coastal views. Just love the coast. Where will life go when I get back? Why do I want all the answers now? Is that not a lesson I have learned in the last 6 weeks, to not get caught up making plans and assumptions and worrying about the future coz you have no idea how it will go? (What day you’ll arrive, how the weather will turn out, how sore your feet will be then, etc). So then, just enjoy this part and then let it happen when you get back, right? Right enough I reckon.

Feel v sleepy all of a sudden. Saw the ‘king in his carriage’ orchids today, before Ficifolia road, then a new stripey one – unidentified as yet. Several roos – seems to be roos and not wallabies in this section. 842km today. Far out, long way. Feet still hurting. Don’t think they’ll stop. Right toe hurting yesterday for first time, at the joint. Also last night – took pandol during the night to get back to sleep. Hips also v uncomfy – kinda jerky uncomfortable feelings. V unpleasant. That is my new answer for what I miss most – a real bed. Comfy mattress and warm doona although my baggies is v warm, when it’s done up I can’t stretch out as much as I’d like. It’s 1520. And I want to sleep. Still 2-3 h til tea time. Nearly got lost around 5.3 or 5.5km, turning off firebreak. So distracted by views of sea, kept going on firebreak. Stopped for photo, then just happened to turn around. Saw trail about 5m into bush, with short sign post with waugal on it! Unusual as not many waugals in this southern section, so very lucky happened to see it!

 

The Bibbulmun: day thirty nine – Walpole -> NOWHERE! Rest day :)

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

First rest day in so long. Since Balingup. It seriously feels like a holiday. A lot of that is also because I’m sitting in a cafe writing thoughtful things (long letters to Yael and Linton). Eating cake and drinking iced coffee (with cream AND icecream), there’s bird noise/panpipes playing and a water feature trickling and it’s SUNNY AND WARM! I seriously can’t get over the weather, it’s divine. The only downer is the smell of tar and the roar of trucks as they bitumise the road out front of the café…Other than that I could be in Bali. Had a big (2.5h!) talk with Linton this morning about all sorts, including us and me. And who I am. Became clearer that this idea of health as an overarching value/life direction is no longer the biggest thing for me. But as it has been such a big part of my self identity, now I don’t know who I am without it. I hate the world of health and wellbeing these days. I know there must be ways to do it, live it, that don’t get caught up in the hype and the fakeness, but I don’t see them. I feel disillusioned and want to distance myself from it. It’s become too mainstream? I need to be different? I thought health people were my people, but now they all piss me off so much. So then who am I? Without that? A wandering soul. Linton keeps telling me I seem lost, and I tend to agree.

I do feel like I’ve come to this sense of calm within myself, but it’s a contentedness with myself here, myself at my core outside of society. I don’t think it will last when I’m back in real life. Slash, it won’t be as relevant. Nor do I have any desire to be a wanderer forever. I don’t know why I have this sense that it wouldn’t work to do my own version of ‘health’ that fucks off all the hype….I don’t think I can quite articulate it, but it just doesn’t seem like it would work. It doesn’t appeal to me, anymore. I want to break up with health and wellness. But where does that leave me? Single in the world of life meaning/purpose. And yes, there’s plenty of life meanings to align myself with, but how do I pick one? How do I know which will last the distance? The last one didn’t. Maybe I’m destined to be forever single and purposeless. I’m afraid of commitment now, in case it doesn’t work out again. My secret crush is to be a creative, but honestly I think creativity is too good for me. I’m afraid to even flirt in fear of getting shut down and rejected. I did enjoy this single life, for a while – since I quit my job and just did book keeping, but now I’m getting that twang, the thought that it’d be nice to curl up on the couch with my life purpose and just, you know, hang out. Settle into that comfort of knowing I’ve got a life direction to come home to at night. The adventure stuff gets me a little bit excited, but again, I don’t know about the long term prospects. This short term fling of the Bibbulmun Track has been fun, but there’s a possibility that I wouldn’t have the stamina to keep up with a full time commitment to Adventure. I suppose it will become apparent in due time, the right meaning will fall into my lap and until then I’ll just keep going on dates with whatever comes up – adventure, aikido, wilderness, blogger…writer? Business person? (nah). Photography? Videography? Helping those less fortunate? Traveller? Yogi? Dancer? Movement person? It sounds like I’ve let go of the idea of mind/movement specialist….Interesting. No promises at this point. Grateful for the mental space of this rest day to ponder those things. And the phone call with Linton, challenging as it was, he does help push me to greater parts of myself. Even when I don’t want it.

The weather is tipped to change this weekend which is very sad. This sun and warmth is glorious (although hot to walk in, and snakey). I’m going to move down the street to the next café and have coffee and cake there, to ahem, compare the coffee. Research purposes.

The coffee at the second place wasn’t bad. Pity the server was too over-friendly/slightly offensive. Prefer the place with the unsmiling hostess. What is life? Four walk days then peaceful Bay, three walk days then Denmark, Four walk days then done. Eleven days to go. Of 50. Just crazy. How do you even go about making a judgement of how it is? Although I don’t want to get ahead of myself – I still have nearly two weeks. Feet are still hurting in new places so anything could happen: just look at Sonja! Peter emailed some of the crew this morning, she had a fractured tibia!! I do at least feel somewhat refreshed and rejuvenated by this zero, and feel ready to tackle the next few days. We’ll see how I feel tomorrow after carrying a heavy pack full of food with a broken hip belt. Can’t help myself but take these extra cliff bars of Peter and Sonja’s even though they’re heavy (because, food). Mum is coming to meet me at Conspicuous Beach to spend a night at Rame Head. It’s her birthday. I feel ok about it but also a little protective over my dwindling few days. Already getting anxious about space, even though, as I said, I still have almost two weeks. I’m also thinking I’ll stay at Denmark, which I was originally going to bypass, and not at Mum and Dad’s – would be too much of a sojourn to the other reality. Dad gets it. It seems silly to pay for accomm at Denners but I want to stay in the headspace. Especially if the rellies will be down – don’t want that kind of needing to be clean and polite and, I dunno, ‘normal’, ‘real life-y’. While I was sitting at Top Deck cafe today I did a really loud fart – I just forgot I was in the real world. Luckily no one was sitting near me. How does a person function in real life again??

The Bibbulmun: day thirty eight – Long Point -> Mt Clare -> Walpole

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Another day. Enjoyed most of it except the last about 2km on gravel bitumen road into Walpole. Left early (6:15) and got to Mount Clare around 9:30 – too early for lunch! Went up on a rock at the lookout area and managed to get reception – called the business I bought my pack from and they are express posting me a replacement hip belt, hurray!

Got into Walpole about 12:30. Saw the lady who gave me the apple in town! Haha. Nearly had an exploding poo moment on the way there – all the bush was too bushy to get into and dig a hole! Made it in time though. Phew. Came across a big roo in the middle of track, he just chilled. All the others who were going to stay at My Clare rocked up in town (I thought they might!) So I won’t be hiking alone out of Walpole. Sonja ended up helicoptered out of Woolbales  🙁  and sent to Bunbury hospital for assessment. Very sad. Peter left a note for us at the Visitor’s centre, they bequeathed their resupply boxes to us! Little bit excited – even though profiting from their bad fortune. Free food is free food, after all!

Have done washing, shower, food…Don’t know what to do with myself! Sitting around in the sun! It’s very mood boosting. More rain is coming but will enjoy sun while it lasts. Going out for dinner with current gang, which includes 3 March girls, Helle and Jerry. A motely crew.

The Bibbulmun: day thirty six – Mt Chance -> Woolbales

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Highlight of day was meeting Dad for gas and lunch exchange. I exchanged my rubbish for lunch haha. He had Lara with him (Swiss chick who was backpacking and in Albany). Much talk by hut mates at Woolbales re: sandwich – ‘how was the sandwich?’ ‘bring any sandwiches back for us?’. Guess I went on about it a bit the day before.

Was/is a really weird thing to see the fam while on the track – it’s like this odd brush with another parallel universe, another reality. Where people are clean and cultured and not obsessed with food. And then there’s this odd tearing away when you leave, where you sort of want to turn back and just go home with them, to showers and beds and shoes, but you keep walking and soon enough that feeling fades and you’re back in the bush, at home.

Back to wading again, and deeper than yesterday – pretty much up to my knees. So much for the guy telling us it was only shin deep (half way up shins he said!). The first part of the day went really quick and easy, saw the karri trees I knew (from guide book) the road would be in to meet Dad and thought ‘the karri trees! That’s where the sandwich is! I mean, Dad. That’s where Dad is.’ After leaving Dad it dragged though, felt I’d been going for ages and FINALLY allowed myself to look at the clock and only been about 40 min. (This is after leaving the 16km mark). Crossed some deep sections mostly fine – a couple of dark ones you couldn’t see through which was a bit creepy, and a few with thick, slippery mud. There was this one that was so bad, slipping around, half losing my shoe, using heaps of energy to walk, slow going, would have fallen many times if not for sticks. Lining on inside of shoe has holes rubbed in it, through which sand and mud go, which builds up under my feet, squishing my toes. When I took my shoes off this arv (felt v grumpy when FINALLY got to hut,) I had about ½ cup dirt packed on top of my toes. With my holey socks and disgustingly dirty bandages, Lynn said I looked like a leper haha. Anyway, totally underestimated how the shoes would go wading. I thought light weight runners would be better, but in the mud they are shit house. Boots would have been better. Also really wish I had a pair of camp shoes as mine just wet and fucked, which leaves me going around camp in bare feet, which is cold, sometimes wet and dirty and maybe ouchy!

A wallaby growled at me today. Gave me a fright. I didn’t even know they growled. It was like a dog! Saw 2 hawks yesterday. Hoping for clouds to clear tonight so can head up to summit and get some pics. I feel v tired. Felt so great this morning having a sleep in! Up at 5am for toilet (bad cramps – poop or period? who knows?) then back to bed and dozed til 6, lay around for a bit, got sunrise hill pic, brekkie, sat around, strapped sonja’s knee, etc. Coffee! With found coffee bag someone left behind. Left at 8:30, perfect timing to arrive and meet Dad, stayed there about 1.5 h and still got into hut around 3pm. Should have long breaks more often! Ocean tomorrow. Today is 749km – ¾ of the way there. Far out. Only 250 to go, come on feet…right heel hurt in new place today. Arch joints sore when got to hut, hip aching right now, woke me last night. Want to finish! After crossing the (relatively) deep creeks coming into the hut, you think you’re done and then there’s one more long, boggy, swamp. You can see the hill in front of you that you know must be where the hut is, but have to get through this long deep quagmire…so demoralizing!

The Bibbulmun: day thirty five – Dog Pool -> Mt Chance

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

2am – dreaming about tent leaking. In my dream, I wake up to a pool of water and my sleeping bag is wet. I don’t freak out because I think to myself that I can just ask the roof contractor tradies to turn their cars on and I can use the car heater to dry my baggie. Then, an actual drip on face. Dream real. Well, luckily not totally real. Tent is leaking but not full pool and sleeping bag not too wet.

A quiz: when there’s no hut and it’s 2am and raining and your tent starts leaking onto your face, do you:

a) cry yourself back to sleep in despair and pretend it’s not happening,

b) pack up in the dark go sit in the only dry place around with no hut – the portaloo – and try to sleep sitting upright,

c) pack up and start hiking in the dark and the rain, it’s only 20km to the next hut,

d) stay up for the next few hours until it’s light dozing/mopping up the puddles intermittently or,

e) fire off your PLB and get the fuck outta there.

I chose D.

Packed and left camp by 5:45. Walked pretty fast and in hut by 10. Passed the time composing an email to the guy who made my tent, and thinking up bitchy sarcastic comments to add (‘Did I forget to tell you I wanted a water proof tent? must have been my mistake’). Sun out when arrived here, phone reception on top of hill. While walking, thinking about after yesterday’s walk I felt Bibb was pushing me to my limits. Then leak happened. Even more to limit. And yet, I feel kind of ok. Like, yeah, it sucks, but what are you going to do? Stop? Today my sense is that I’ve reached some place of acceptance within myself, like I’ve seen into my brain and it’s ok in there. Things are shit and I hate the long straight roads but I’m ok. I dealt with a 2 am leak. Although ashamed and annoyed and disappointed about it (I was so proud of my custom, locally made, ethical tent). I’ve got some tough.

I was also thinking about how to appreciate your life: go without. Without a shower for days, sleeping on the ground, eating only processed/preserved food, no shelter to stay dry, not having a towel, not having a choice of food, no running water, no hot water, no soap, no reception, no power…so many things (Transport! Fresh food! An abundance of food, and food choices! Heating! Lights! Beds! Towels! Clean clothes! Water! Shelter! Comfortable shoes! Ovens! Bikes! Internet!) we have and just take utterly for granted.

Saw three emus and tiny turtle (tortoise?) long neck I think, on the plains. Also had much to be grateful for – drip on face woke me up before sleeping bag got too wet, there were some moments of sun throughout the day, I went to bed at 7 last night so had at least a few hours sleep before the leak happened, it stopped raining while I packed up the tent, I saw 3 emus, today was only 20km and there is a HUT here – imagine if rain night happened at Gardner and then had to do it again at Dog Pool? Meeting Dad for gas and sandwich and cake tomorrow at Broke Inlet road, looking foward to it.

….

The 2 March girls arrived here, and Jerry, Helle, Peter and Sonja. Nice to have a gang of happy sociable people. Feel quite rested after being here all day (after getting in at 10am). Pingerup plains were cool, distractingly, cold water was actually quite nice on sore feet, and flowers were lovely. More wading tomorrow, then back to hills. Thunder and hail this arvo – SO pleased and grateful to be in hut, makes this experience 1000x better. Would be miserable without. Peter going back about 2km for Sonja’s lost pack cover because her feet are sore. What a partner.

The Bibbulmun: day thirty four – Gardener -> Lake Maringup (closed) -> Dog Pool

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Yesterday’s walk was beautiful, after a late start of around 12:45 thanks to Motel Woman. Wildflowers best yet. Not too hilly and nice soft sandy track. Arrived to no roof on hut (sigh) so put up tent – didn’t rain! Roof builder contractors there, very ‘like, how far youse been walking?’ and barbequing sausages on their portable gas stoves. I was hoping they might share but no luck.

Got up early to avoid rain (woke at 4:44) left around 6:10. Long long fucking day. The ‘temporary site’ to replace the flooded Lake Maringup was literally 2 jerry cans at the junction of the 4WD tracks. Glad I didn’t plan to camp there. 33km total. Also big debacle about which way to go at Chesapeake road junction – all for nothing in the end as Chesapeake road has moved since map was printed. Listened to some Harry and some Amy Poelher Yes Please audio book where she said writing a book was hard –and something about ‘it’s the doing of it’ that is the important part. Trying to remember that with the walking. Feel am just ‘getting through it’ again, hanging out for Walpole. Although enjoying bits today, my body is sore and I am tired and feel I could finish at this point feeling satisfied, if this were the end of the track. But it’s not. Still some 300km to go. So fucking far. The question WHY does come up, but is no longer relevant. Now it’s that I’ve started and want to finish. Don’t know why. Don’t know why it would feel so bad to stop early. I’m not even considering stopping as an option, even as I spend all day hanging out for when I can stop for a break, when I get to camp, when I get to town, when I’m done!

At Dog Pool now, it’s nice but still no shelter. I actually slept better last night in my tent, but like to have the shelter to lie around in. At least it’s not raining yet – only a few showers today, but thunderstorms tipped for tomorrow. Shelter at least tomorrow, if not a fire. Tonight is the last hut with a fire pit! Still 4 more nights until next town. At least tomorrow is only 19.5km. Had my first wading today – avoided first few big puddles but eventually accepted defeat and just went through it. Feet are white and peeling and all the pad of my foot part of the injinji socks I found are worn through. Dirt is ingrained in hands and feet, I’m sticky from dried sweat and can’t even be bothered to wash. Such is life.

The Bibbulmun: day thirty three – Northcliffe -> Gardener

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

There are rumours about roofs at Gardener and Dog pool – supposed to be on ‘by Friday’ – tomorrow. Was raining heavily this morning and more predicted so roof would be great…will see! Plan to check out, use visitor centre wifi and eat again then leave.

….

Went to visitor centre to use wifi and ran into Lyn from the March Girls – she’d just booked a room at the Motel! Don’t do it! I said, $160 a night and such a rip off! What? She says, I only paid $90!

W. T. F.

I used the visitor centre phone to ring the Motel Woman, and queried why I’d paid $70 more than the next person. She gave me about four different bullshit excuses like ‘we thought you were going to stay two nights so we were only going to charge you an extra $20 for the second night’ and ‘we talked to some friends last night after we checked you in who suggested doing a discount price for walkers’ and then settled on ‘how about I refund you the difference’. Then began a long stretch of waiting for her to come into town to meet me, her not being where we agreed to meet, going to make another phone call, going to where she was, etc. Made me quite late getting started but worth it for 70 bucks yo. Guess she realised I might bag them out in the hut books if she didn’t, and walkers are pretty decent trade through the towns!

The Bibbulmun: day thirty two – Warren -> Northcliffe (Shitcliffe)

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

OMG worst day so far. Started ok with yet another bad nights sleep – waking hot and sweaty, with nerve/pelvic pain. Self conscious of moving about on my sleeping mat for noise factor. But whatev. Still morning, nice @ lake/dam. Got up and ready so early, stoked to be going to town, just wanted to lay with feet up. Left before 6:30am, walk so flat and relatively clear compared to prev week. Big long flooded section between paddocks which I avoided by walking along barbed wire fence line. Some Harry for last hour or so, along hard gravel road. Got to town – no reception. WTF. Went to visitor centre (wifi!), collected box and asked about local accom, was told: motel (recently closed) now taken over by new people – don’t have number. Left pack in visitor centre to walk past motel and get number (on advice of visitor centre helper). Number not there. Went to eat and hope visitor centre lady could find number.

Ate (lol, worst soy latte I’ve had in a long time), saw Helle and Jerry. Back to visitor centre around 12-12:30. Motel available. Not sure on cost but prev around $90/night. Waited there til 2. Motel owner woman came over to get me to check me in. Check in – no wifi, no breakie included, no washing facilities – $160 for one night. GO FUCK YOURSELF. Too late now. 2:40pm. Fuck you, I’m going to eat lunch – went next door to cafe. Café closed at 2:30. Fuckkkk. Then I think, I saw shop next to café with gluten free bread – was open 9-4, can go there and make a sandwich – arrive to sign on door – on Wednesdays, closes at 2. Fucccckkkkk. Give up. Go back to motel room.

Open resupply box. Fuck. Have sent self box with 2 days of food not 6. (Thought it looked small). What will I eat in next section?? Will need to resupply at tiny mega expensive general store! No freeze dried items! Food will be so heavy!

Bought Telstra sim. (So upset! So isolated! Need to talk to a friend!). Taking ages to connect (usually 10 min, the operator tells me!). Waiting, waiting. Get coins from general store. Go to phone booth (haven’t used one in so many years – feeling desperate). Put in 50c, call Linton – goes to voicemail. Phone keeps my 50c. Another 50c and try calling Mum – goes to voicemail. One more 50c and try Linton again – he finally answered and then spent my $3.50 in about 3 minutes just crying and saying fuck this fuck that. Not the most comforting but better than nothing.

Nowhere in town open for dinner. Motel lady offered to give me microwave so I could eat a frozen microwave meal from the general store. They are only super super processed pasta and pizza – all gluteny and taste shit and I just want real food while I’m in town!! She then drove me to nearest pub around 2km away (I suppose that was nice of her. Grudging thanks). 2km long way to walk when trying to rest sore feet. Luckily Peter and Sonja were there and listened to my woes and bought and fed me red wine. Ate steak and chips. Asked at the bar if anyone lived in town and could drive me back. A man who seemed quite drunk drove me home after P and S gave me leftover food from their packs.

I had wanted to stay for rest day but now hate Shitcliffe too much so will go on. Now have so much food can hardly fit in bag. Over compensating for being hungry. Although when left Pemberton thought had heaps of food but ate most of it…think shorter and easier days at least some of this section (I hope). Also, reach the coast! And wading…will battle on. Not all about fun and laughs right?