The Bibbulmun: day twenty one – Grimwade -> Balingup

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

3 weeks! Congrats to me. Had the thought this morning – what if I could fly! How much easier would that be! Just hover a little bit over the track, then my feet wouldn’t hurt so much…I could definitely finish the whole track if I could fly!

Actually feeling good this morning. Walking fast, which is probably bad for my feet but oh well…Just feel like it. Breathing in and breathing out some things I want to let go of today, offering them to the great expanse of the bush where they can just disperse.

Yesterday after stopped writing, heard Fred whispering something to Bec, she snapped ‘Stop it Fred, you’re really depressing me today’. He muttered something and she said ‘You’re tired and bored, that’s your excuse?’ ** he mutters something else** ‘We’ve come this far, why would we give up now?” Guess he was suggesting to stop. Serious or not I don’t know, but even more glad to be alone. No tired bored L to needle me, no one for me to snap at, no chance of one wanting to stop and other not. This morning I applauded their dedication to coffee with the jetboil coffee plunger attachment, and Fred said ‘I’d be fine with instant’. ‘Instant, disgusting!” She says. Ah, marital bliss eh?

Missed my 5.3km stop (there was no pine tree!) so stopped at 6.7km instead. Ah, corn chips and Lindt choc (roasted almond flavor) at 8:30 am…looking forward to lunch in Balingup – hope places are open!

The palette of the bush is to be expected if you grew up here: earthy reds, khaki green, grey/black, muted browny/beige, dark green, bluey/steely green, rich browns. BUT THEN! Vibrant purples, pinks, oranges and blues. Buttery yellow and rich reds. Bright fluoro greens and the most deep, bright, vibrant blue you can imagine. It’s a fucking wonderland out here.

The Bibbulmun: day twenty – Noggerup -> Grimwade

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Again, just getting through the day rather than enjoying or savouring it. Feet seem to be getting worse. Had my slowest day yet, <4km p/h with many rest stops (albeit short ones) and feet still killing by time arrived (23km). Annoying as it seems feet are only thing holding me back from walking more – rest of body isn’t too bad (although shoulders sore every day and left hip…).

Fucking cold weather – had some hail during the walk, and just lying here my fingers are cold. Looking forward to not sharing the hut with these guys after tonight. Have discovered that I don’t like walking just in-front of or just behind people – competitiveness kicks in and I keep sort of rushing. Odd weather today – clear/cloudy/still/windy/rainy/hail/sunny/freezing/warm – like being in Melbourne! (haha). Happy to see first sighting of peppermint trees – tiny teaser of being closer to the coast (long ways to yet hobbits).

More about this couple – it’s seeing the nagging (her at him mostly) that makes me not want to be like that with Linton. ‘I thought you were saving your phone battery’ ‘I am’ ‘well you’re listening to music and scrolling thought it…that’ll use it up’. It’s funny how it looks when you see it in other people…Bit poopy again today, after a ‘solid’ morning. Suspect solidness may have been from gluten, and lack of solidness from ++ sugar?? Eating so much sugar. It’s gross. Currently about to eat a snickers while I listen to some Harry. (These guys also have sore feet – at least it’s not just me).

The Bibbulmun: day nineteen – Yabberup -> Noggerup

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Hard day. Rained basically non-stop. And occasionally quite heavily, right from the get go. Tried to leave camp late in order to arrive at Mumby Tav at opening time – nearly 8am (late start!). Glen Mervyn dam was pretty, sat on a log – in the rain – and ate a snack. Feet became v wet – could see droplets of water splashing out of the tops of my shoes as I walked. Feet v sore – feeling despondent and that they’re getting worse when I expected them to be getting better. Also left hip very achy at night and interrupting my sleep. Sad face.

Was such a luxury/relief to stop at Mumby Tav for lunch – dried shoes and socks by fire so was only very slightly damp when left. Ate steak sanga and chips (gluten – farts are so bad) which was v yum. Sun even came out for the afternoon’s walk which was nice but distracted by sore feet. Even doing 20km is a struggle, which is like a short day. So frustrating. Not sure how long will be able to continue if feet keep getting worse…Put windscreen reflector under sleeping mat last night, much warmer but so noisy it even kept me awake. Every breath in and out it creaked. FARK. ONLY ONE THIRD THROUGH AND I’M FALLING TO PIECES.

Paid $3 for black, instant coffee today. New low, coffee wise. When I asked if had soy milk, bar woman gave me funny look and tried not to laugh/scoff.

Posterboard on the wall in the tavern full of bogan things – Japan not allowing muslims (Australia should be like Japan), ‘I swear because I fucking can’ etc. Ultra offensive/hilariously bad. V, V bogan place. Much Ned Kelly paraphernalia.

Feel like am just ‘getting through’ this section rather than actually enjoying it which makes me sad. Can’t imagine how great it would be to not be hurting every step…Sigh. Just want to eat so can go to sleep. PS had most tasty dinner last night – instant (freeze dried) rice, freeze dried veg, TUNA STEAK, olive oil and parmesan. So so good. Same tonight but instant mash instead of rice. Soaked feet in small river in front of hut, v cold and nice.

The Bibbulmun: day eighteen – Collie -> Yabberup

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Woke early feeling leaving anxiety. Also anxious as it’s quite likely there won’t be anyone else sharing the next section with me – Mr Deer is taking a rest day today. Trying to sit with the anxiety and not be held back (as if I could be held back, what am I going to do; stay in Collie?). Not excited about feeling scared and alone, but a) maybe newcomers will appear, or b) maybe I’ll face my fears and just deal with it!


All that worrying for nothing – there’s people here! Bec and Fred ‘snails’ who I’ve been following the whole time. And there’s even reception. Totally wasted anxiety energy – will I learn? Doubtful. Nice 20 km out, although feet still v sore. Beautiful smell of boronia flowers for lots of the walk – sunny and warm – tipped to change tomorrow though! Looking forward to lunch at Mumballup Tavern tomorrow – will have to restrain myself from leaving early so I don’t arrive before it’s open! (11:30am – I’m usually close to finishing a whole day’s walk by then!)

Such a beautiful sunny arvo. Was kinda looking forward to catching up with these guys but they seem a bit meh. Couple from Adelaide. They’re fine, we just have no spark. I was almost psyching myself up for the alone challenge too. It’s interesting seeing a young couple though – it makes me think I’m glad I’m doing it solo – something about watching the way they are supporting/relying on each other – makes me glad to be independent. Also they are now whispering to each other – about me? (Probs just being overly sensitive with that one). Although I did audibly fart in front of them a short while ago…thought it would be silent. Damn.

The Bibbulmun: day seventeen – REST DAY! Collie

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

First rest day!! Got into Collie around 4:30pm yesterday, 36.9km/8 hours walking. Big day. Feet v v sore. Sore by 15km, let alone 37! Phoned Mum and Dad, Linton. Showered. Domino’s GF pizza, garlic bread, choc mousse. Finally not hungry for a little while…Today eating ’til I feel sick. More shower. Picked up food resupply box from hostel. Washed clothes (wandered around the hostel wearing literally only my raincoat while clothes in the wash and the dryer. Felt a little like a flasher. Luckily is a 3/4 length coat). Post Office (sent home some spare stuff, sent some choc and jerky onwards to my self at next town, picked up my heel lift that Dad posted here), podiatrist (got a last minute cancellation appt!) – she was most unimpressed with my shoes and orthotics. ‘Useless, simply useless’. She tried to suppress her anger at how ‘useless’ they were but I could hear her muttering around the corner of the partition in the room. I thought yesterday – although I feel no great passion for my life at home at the moment, nor do I feel great passion/any passion for anything really. Like, there’s no point to doing the Bibb, but also no point in not doing it.

Have been eating ALL the gluten. Farts very bad. Want very much to go back to gluten free. A whole iced apple log thing from bakery, sausage roll, croutons on caesar salad (anchovies! Too much mayo :/ ) chicken noodles in hut the other day, garlic bread…bleh. Mr Deer has hooked me up with a super cheap airmat that is insulated! V happy. $107. Cheaper than I paid for my (not insulated) one. He’s a good boy. Have bought wind screen reflector to go under my current mat to get me though ’til then. V tired. Sugar, food, people – tiring. Plain food, walking, bush – less so. Even though much increased exercise. Have sorted my food for next section. Much more, think I’ll have leftovers. Pack will be heavy though.


The Bibbulmun: day sixteen – Yourdamung -> Harris Dam -> Collie

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Stop for snack around 8am (1/2 bag doritos, healthy morning snack), early sun coming through trees. Very still, sun catching wings/bodies of many large mozzies – look like tiny golden fairies! V. magical.

*very tired at end of day. no energy for writing*

The Bibbulmun: day fifteen – Possum Springs -> Yourdamung

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

I’m at Yourdamung hut – fanged it here this morning to arrive by 11:20 although I wasn’t sure I would. I was thinking if I made it before midday that I’d keep going to Harris Dam – I was cold and hungry last night – literally dreaming about food, and all I could think about all day is food. I don’t have enough to be comfortable another two nights. Whilst walking, to pass the time (and because LITERALLY all I could think about was food related things, I came up with a long winded analogy to try and describe how hungry I feel: imagine having a bucket, one of those ones that you might take out to the garden and fill with potatoes you’ve dug out of the ground (could it be a 20L bucket?), and you get given the task of filling it with coins. Then you throw in $2.50, in silver, and ask, is it full yet? Not. Even. Close. But now I’m here at Yourdamung, and there is a freeze dried meal! Pasta (gluten) but I’m not picky at this point. But it throws up another question – eating it for lunch (which I’m doing now) will that make the rest of my food last till Collie for another two nights?? Possibly. Just not looking forward to thinking of nothing but food for the next two and half days – it’s so boring. And not fun/enjoying the scenery…On the other hand, feet are already sore after 19km, another 14 and they will be even more sore…which is bigger priority? If not for the food in this hut then food definitely would be…will see how feel after eating.


I had actually just made the decision to move on, but then did the ‘body compass’ check in and the result was to stay here – marginally. I guess what my body really needs is more resting of feet rather than food, as I’ve just eaten lunch. It’s pretty much the time of day where I have to make a call either way. I think I’ll stay here. Keep my original itinerary, no rest day in Collie, easy 15km tomorrow to rest the feet even more and then 22 into Collie in the morning. Can leave early to arrive to Collie by noon…Just means today and tomorrow will be hungry. And maybe two more cold nights. But hey. Character building, right? Food coma. Nap time.


Got hungry <2 hours after eating. Have had snacks but still hungry. I guess this is ‘hiker hunger’? Perhaps it will be this way for next 5 weeks? Like 5 km of straight road today – felt like it had been going since forever, and was going to last forever (until it stopped of course). Strange sensation of just, foreverness. It has been raining on and off all arvo – hopefully will stay cloudy and therefore warmer tonight. Feel am becoming something else now – discussing with Mr Deer – we’re not normal humans anymore – we’re bush humans. Listening to Harry, stretching, drinking tea and eating choc. Not a bad arvo. Lots of doing ‘not much’ on this adventure. Also lots of doing lots, too, I guess. I’m now thinking I’ll double tomorrow. It will be v. punishing to my feet I’m sure….but, food. No phone since…Wed morning? Maybe Thurs morning…It’s now Sunday. Longest I’ve gone in long time – even overseas there’s internet more regularly. Like it, but also keen to get into range again. Want connection?

Why do I keep pushing myself with the walking when my feet hurt so much? The two joints seem to be getting worse not better which is distressing for me (as usual). Although my left toe has improved a lot, and my right heel is a lot better when I wear my shoe as a slipper – and both of those, at home, would’ve caused me to stop doing whatever I was doing. Maybe can push through this foot pain too, to the other, less painful, side? So frustrating when rest of self is keen to walk (and eat). Constant thinking of food. So boring. Also. My fingernails are black, there’s dirt ingrained in the lines of my hands. I’m kinda sticky from layers of sweat and I’m sure I smell. Such is life! Dinner time is getting earlier and earlier. Trying to wait until 5:30…it’s hard. Also – the couple of times I managed to go to sleep last night and not wake up cold, I woke up drooling on my ‘pillow’ instead. Fuckdamn.

The Bibbulmun: day fourteen – Dookanelly -> Possum Springs

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

‘Twas a long slog today indeed – 21km diversion for 11km of closed track. Mr Deer and I got up at 4am to get an early start. Dark and ffffreezing. Hiked the first 60-90min with head-torch. 21km on road and 4WD track – most uninspiring but so much better with having conversation. Felt good at end of diversion, although looked at river and went – could have crossed that no sweat. Oh well. Then a bit geographically challenged, spent a few minutes walking up and down looking for track. Found track again (near Worsky conveyor – mistake was that heads were down, tramping up hill, just missed the turn off waugal). Stopped for lunch with only 6 ish km to go (saw 2 emus poking around while we sat). Already at lunch and only 6km left!

Was longest 6km ever. Feet hurting, couldn’t be bothered talking etc. Pacing out km. Bush quite pretty but hard to really appreciate it. Realise don’t have quite enough food for next three days. Ditched too much of it in Dwellingup. Considering a double in the next few days but would be hard – either a 33km tomorrow or 36km the day after…other option is that I go a bit hungry over the next three days!! And no rest day in Collie. Thinking might do 19km tomorrow, then go past the campsite and just pitch a tent somewhere towards Collie so it’s a smaller walk in the 3rd day. As I have no brekkie or lunch that day and minimal snacks. Means a bit of a lonely/scary night though. Oh well, we’ll see. I’m already hungry most of the time as it is. Within 45 minutes of eating – not that I’m eating huge amounts, only snacks and crackers and vegemite in the day. Haven’t thought much about life today. Phone off all day and no reception since day before yesterday. Feeling some separation from it all, which is quite good actually. Like it all actually doesn’t matter out here, for a bit anyway.

The Bibbulmun: day thirteen – Murray -> Dookanelly

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Not a bad day. Absolutely loved the morning leaving Murray – was misty and quite still. Beautiful. Took some pics but the camera can’t quite capture the look of sun on morning dew, the sparkle of droplets falling off branches, the steam rising off the fallen tree trunks. The area is all burned out, so clear views to river and this fluro psychedelic green fairyfloss moss covers a lot of ground, plus ferns – with tall black sticks sticking up out of it. It actually looks quite cool. Felt awesome for first 10-12 km of walk feet not hurting. (Right shoe still a slipper). Pack not too heavy. But last few km struggled. Just one joint in feet hurting – on both sides – above arch. Important joint though. Also 2km straight up 4WD track hill, red slippery clay – trudging. Not looking forward to 34km diversion tomorrow.

Mr Deer (who did rock up late last night – pretty much just ate and passed out; but still felt less scared) reckons he’s going to get going by 5am – maybe I will too. I leap frogged all morning with Dave – but he’s not here. I guess he got started on the diversion. Good move if you ask me. I had a bush bath here, in the sun! Was nice. It’s super cold though. Today not feeling as despairing about things back in Melb. Remembering the good points.

Got excited when I found a book of short stories in the hut (I miss reading!!) but there were unfortunately some scary stories. One about some teenagers getting stalked and abducted by a scary dude in a car; one about some creatures from the underworld who come up and start tearing apart humans in gruesome detail. Come on guys, don’t leave books like that lying around for people to read when they’re (potentially) alone in the middle of the bush! Haha.

The Bibbulmun: day twelve – Swamp Oak -> Murray

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Weird day. Felt scared and nervy all day! Guy in ute with dog drove past me early in day – pretty sure he was on closed road. Thinking of some sad thoughts* and crying again – last night in sleeping bag and again having break today. Almost comical – sitting on a log alone in the bush, in light rain, wearing dorky hat, eating snacks and crying. Lol. Slept well last night – went to bed before 7 before it got dark, and didn’t even listen to Harry**. Very still night. When got here around 12:30 (even though when walking, thought must be at least 1:30 – was only 11:30. Time dragging again) felt relieved and a bit less scared. Then heard 3 massive noises – sounded like explosions. Also two emergency services sirens. Not that far away – over hill on other side of river. Very scary. Retreated into corner of hut – as though I’d be safer there! Hoping little track brother Mr Deer does the double today from Dwellingup – scared to stay alone again! Beautiful blue wrens here. Walked 20km today with the heel cup of my shoe folded down under my foot – like a slip on shoe. So much better for heel! Freaked out last night realizing how swollen heel is. Wearing shoe like this is less good for rest of foot/ankle joints though. Sore at top of arches on both sides. Stop start rain since around 11:30. Also right shoulder sore – axillary nerve (?) throbbing. Tight rotator cuff I think. So pleased I went with the vegemite tube at Dwellingup – loving it on corn crackers as a savoury snack. Too much sugar? Think my tummy is better today too.

*edited out as not for public consumption 😉

** Harry Potter audio book