The Bibbulmun: day sixteen – Yourdamung -> Harris Dam -> Collie

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Stop for snack around 8am (1/2 bag doritos, healthy morning snack), early sun coming through trees. Very still, sun catching wings/bodies of many large mozzies – look like tiny golden fairies! V. magical.

*very tired at end of day. no energy for writing*

The Bibbulmun: day fifteen – Possum Springs -> Yourdamung

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

I’m at Yourdamung hut – fanged it here this morning to arrive by 11:20 although I wasn’t sure I would. I was thinking if I made it before midday that I’d keep going to Harris Dam – I was cold and hungry last night – literally dreaming about food, and all I could think about all day is food. I don’t have enough to be comfortable another two nights. Whilst walking, to pass the time (and because LITERALLY all I could think about was food related things, I came up with a long winded analogy to try and describe how hungry I feel: imagine having a bucket, one of those ones that you might take out to the garden and fill with potatoes you’ve dug out of the ground (could it be a 20L bucket?), and you get given the task of filling it with coins. Then you throw in $2.50, in silver, and ask, is it full yet? Not. Even. Close. But now I’m here at Yourdamung, and there is a freeze dried meal! Pasta (gluten) but I’m not picky at this point. But it throws up another question – eating it for lunch (which I’m doing now) will that make the rest of my food last till Collie for another two nights?? Possibly. Just not looking forward to thinking of nothing but food for the next two and half days – it’s so boring. And not fun/enjoying the scenery…On the other hand, feet are already sore after 19km, another 14 and they will be even more sore…which is bigger priority? If not for the food in this hut then food definitely would be…will see how feel after eating.


I had actually just made the decision to move on, but then did the ‘body compass’ check in and the result was to stay here – marginally. I guess what my body really needs is more resting of feet rather than food, as I’ve just eaten lunch. It’s pretty much the time of day where I have to make a call either way. I think I’ll stay here. Keep my original itinerary, no rest day in Collie, easy 15km tomorrow to rest the feet even more and then 22 into Collie in the morning. Can leave early to arrive to Collie by noon…Just means today and tomorrow will be hungry. And maybe two more cold nights. But hey. Character building, right? Food coma. Nap time.


Got hungry <2 hours after eating. Have had snacks but still hungry. I guess this is ‘hiker hunger’? Perhaps it will be this way for next 5 weeks? Like 5 km of straight road today – felt like it had been going since forever, and was going to last forever (until it stopped of course). Strange sensation of just, foreverness. It has been raining on and off all arvo – hopefully will stay cloudy and therefore warmer tonight. Feel am becoming something else now – discussing with Mr Deer – we’re not normal humans anymore – we’re bush humans. Listening to Harry, stretching, drinking tea and eating choc. Not a bad arvo. Lots of doing ‘not much’ on this adventure. Also lots of doing lots, too, I guess. I’m now thinking I’ll double tomorrow. It will be v. punishing to my feet I’m sure….but, food. No phone since…Wed morning? Maybe Thurs morning…It’s now Sunday. Longest I’ve gone in long time – even overseas there’s internet more regularly. Like it, but also keen to get into range again. Want connection?

Why do I keep pushing myself with the walking when my feet hurt so much? The two joints seem to be getting worse not better which is distressing for me (as usual). Although my left toe has improved a lot, and my right heel is a lot better when I wear my shoe as a slipper – and both of those, at home, would’ve caused me to stop doing whatever I was doing. Maybe can push through this foot pain too, to the other, less painful, side? So frustrating when rest of self is keen to walk (and eat). Constant thinking of food. So boring. Also. My fingernails are black, there’s dirt ingrained in the lines of my hands. I’m kinda sticky from layers of sweat and I’m sure I smell. Such is life! Dinner time is getting earlier and earlier. Trying to wait until 5:30…it’s hard. Also – the couple of times I managed to go to sleep last night and not wake up cold, I woke up drooling on my ‘pillow’ instead. Fuckdamn.

The Bibbulmun: day fourteen – Dookanelly -> Possum Springs

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

‘Twas a long slog today indeed – 21km diversion for 11km of closed track. Mr Deer and I got up at 4am to get an early start. Dark and ffffreezing. Hiked the first 60-90min with head-torch. 21km on road and 4WD track – most uninspiring but so much better with having conversation. Felt good at end of diversion, although looked at river and went – could have crossed that no sweat. Oh well. Then a bit geographically challenged, spent a few minutes walking up and down looking for track. Found track again (near Worsky conveyor – mistake was that heads were down, tramping up hill, just missed the turn off waugal). Stopped for lunch with only 6 ish km to go (saw 2 emus poking around while we sat). Already at lunch and only 6km left!

Was longest 6km ever. Feet hurting, couldn’t be bothered talking etc. Pacing out km. Bush quite pretty but hard to really appreciate it. Realise don’t have quite enough food for next three days. Ditched too much of it in Dwellingup. Considering a double in the next few days but would be hard – either a 33km tomorrow or 36km the day after…other option is that I go a bit hungry over the next three days!! And no rest day in Collie. Thinking might do 19km tomorrow, then go past the campsite and just pitch a tent somewhere towards Collie so it’s a smaller walk in the 3rd day. As I have no brekkie or lunch that day and minimal snacks. Means a bit of a lonely/scary night though. Oh well, we’ll see. I’m already hungry most of the time as it is. Within 45 minutes of eating – not that I’m eating huge amounts, only snacks and crackers and vegemite in the day. Haven’t thought much about life today. Phone off all day and no reception since day before yesterday. Feeling some separation from it all, which is quite good actually. Like it all actually doesn’t matter out here, for a bit anyway.

The Bibbulmun: day thirteen – Murray -> Dookanelly

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Not a bad day. Absolutely loved the morning leaving Murray – was misty and quite still. Beautiful. Took some pics but the camera can’t quite capture the look of sun on morning dew, the sparkle of droplets falling off branches, the steam rising off the fallen tree trunks. The area is all burned out, so clear views to river and this fluro psychedelic green fairyfloss moss covers a lot of ground, plus ferns – with tall black sticks sticking up out of it. It actually looks quite cool. Felt awesome for first 10-12 km of walk feet not hurting. (Right shoe still a slipper). Pack not too heavy. But last few km struggled. Just one joint in feet hurting – on both sides – above arch. Important joint though. Also 2km straight up 4WD track hill, red slippery clay – trudging. Not looking forward to 34km diversion tomorrow.

Mr Deer (who did rock up late last night – pretty much just ate and passed out; but still felt less scared) reckons he’s going to get going by 5am – maybe I will too. I leap frogged all morning with Dave – but he’s not here. I guess he got started on the diversion. Good move if you ask me. I had a bush bath here, in the sun! Was nice. It’s super cold though. Today not feeling as despairing about things back in Melb. Remembering the good points.

Got excited when I found a book of short stories in the hut (I miss reading!!) but there were unfortunately some scary stories. One about some teenagers getting stalked and abducted by a scary dude in a car; one about some creatures from the underworld who come up and start tearing apart humans in gruesome detail. Come on guys, don’t leave books like that lying around for people to read when they’re (potentially) alone in the middle of the bush! Haha.

The Bibbulmun: day twelve – Swamp Oak -> Murray

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Weird day. Felt scared and nervy all day! Guy in ute with dog drove past me early in day – pretty sure he was on closed road. Thinking of some sad thoughts* and crying again – last night in sleeping bag and again having break today. Almost comical – sitting on a log alone in the bush, in light rain, wearing dorky hat, eating snacks and crying. Lol. Slept well last night – went to bed before 7 before it got dark, and didn’t even listen to Harry**. Very still night. When got here around 12:30 (even though when walking, thought must be at least 1:30 – was only 11:30. Time dragging again) felt relieved and a bit less scared. Then heard 3 massive noises – sounded like explosions. Also two emergency services sirens. Not that far away – over hill on other side of river. Very scary. Retreated into corner of hut – as though I’d be safer there! Hoping little track brother Mr Deer does the double today from Dwellingup – scared to stay alone again! Beautiful blue wrens here. Walked 20km today with the heel cup of my shoe folded down under my foot – like a slip on shoe. So much better for heel! Freaked out last night realizing how swollen heel is. Wearing shoe like this is less good for rest of foot/ankle joints though. Sore at top of arches on both sides. Stop start rain since around 11:30. Also right shoulder sore – axillary nerve (?) throbbing. Tight rotator cuff I think. So pleased I went with the vegemite tube at Dwellingup – loving it on corn crackers as a savoury snack. Too much sugar? Think my tummy is better today too.

*edited out as not for public consumption 😉

** Harry Potter audio book

The Bibbulmun: day eleven – Dwellingup -> Swamp Oak

In September and October 2016 I did the 1000km Bibbulmun Track Solo, North-South. Here’s a few excerpts from my journal.

Lovely Lisa drove me to Pinjarra this morning to try get gas (no luck! Only had ginormous size cans which didn’t want on account of weight) and probiotics. Saw Mr Deer (!) randomly, in the supermarket carpark (Pinjarra being a twenty minute drive from Dwell where we both spent the night) and told him of my gas predicament; he got his parents to bring down a spare and is going to drop some around to me at Lisa’s shortly. Saving my bacon that boy. Felt overwhelmed when got to town and café yesterday – noise, people, food? And wanted to be back in bush. Now settled back to reality and hard to leave…


5pm: Struggled today. Only 13.3km, and took around 4 hours with several stops. Feet/Achilles hurt, shoulders hurt, just felt TIRED. Also felt emotionally all over the place. Felt sick in gut and sad/frustrated with that. Am only one here so far so likely to be first night alone. Feel a little anxious/nervous! Very still night which makes any noises more obvious. Have told people that my Achilles isn’t getting worse but I think it might be. Very sad and upset – and trying to practice acceptance. Was so very well cared for by Lisa, such a lovely connection. Parrots/cockies nibbling gumnuts and dropping them noisily (especially noisy when fall on the roof of the hut). The birds are my protectors, according to Lisa. Hoping I’m just tired from not sleeping as much. Not sure if I can go back to life as it is/was in Melb. Need the bush. Looked in book for Eddie coming through here last year, found his entry – three days after Julian had been here! So funny. Brain is already telling me many scary scenarios that could happen involving scary men etc. Brain is nervous.